Painting kitchen cabinets is one of the most impactful home improvement projects you can tackle. A $500-$1,000 DIY investment can deliver results that look like a $15,000+ cabinet replacement. This guide covers everything from prep to final coat.
π Project At-a-Glance
π Supplies Checklist
Preparation
- TSP or degreaser
- Scrub sponges
- 150-220 grit sandpaper
- Sanding block or orbital sander
- Tack cloths
- Painter's tape
- Drop cloths
Paint & Primer
- Bonding primer (shellac or adhesion primer)
- Cabinet-grade paint (2-3 gallons)
- Paint stirrers
- Paint strainer (optional)
Application Tools
- 2.5" angled brush (quality brand)
- 4" foam mini rollers
- Roller tray
- HVLP sprayer (optional, recommended)
Other
- Screwdriver/drill
- Ziplock bags (for hardware)
- Markers for labeling
- Sawhorses or drying rack
- New hardware (optional upgrade)
Step 1: Remove Hardware & Doors
Before You Start
- Take photos of your kitchen from multiple angles
- Number each door and drawer with tape on the inside
- Create a cabinet map showing door locations
Removal Process
- Remove all doors from hinges
- Remove drawer fronts (if easily detachable)
- Remove all hardware (knobs, pulls, hinges)
- Place hardware in labeled ziplock bags
- Store doors flat on sawhorses or a table
π‘ Pro Tip: The Numbering System
Use masking tape on the inside of each door. Number them 1, 2, 3, etc. and mark the corresponding location on the cabinet frame. Hinges vary slightlyβmisplacing doors causes alignment issues.
Step 2: Clean Everything Thoroughly
This is the most important prep step. Kitchen cabinets accumulate years of grease, fingerprints, and cooking residueβpaint won't adhere to these surfaces.
Cleaning Process
- Mix TSP (trisodium phosphate) with warm water per package directions
- Scrub all surfaces with solution using non-abrasive pad
- Pay extra attention to areas near stove (grease hotspots)
- Rinse with clean water
- Let dry completely (overnight is best)
β οΈ Don't Skip This Step!
Grease is invisible but devastating to paint adhesion. Even if cabinets look clean, years of cooking have deposited oils that prevent bonding.
Step 3: Sand Surfaces
Why Sanding Matters
Sanding creates "tooth" for primer and paint to grip. Without sanding, even the best primer may eventually peel.
Sanding Process
- Use 150-grit sandpaper for initial scuffing
- Sand with the grain on flat surfaces
- Use sanding sponge for edges and profiles
- Don't sand through the finishβjust scuff to dull the sheen
- Wipe with tack cloth to remove all dust
Types of Cabinet Finishes
- Wood: Sand normally, check for grain raising
- Laminate: Use 220-grit, sand very lightly
- MDF: Sand carefully, can fuzz if over-sanded
- Thermofoil: Light sanding or liquid deglosser
Step 4: Prime
Why Primer is Non-Negotiable
Primer blocks stains, promotes adhesion, and provides a uniform base for your topcoat. Skip it and you may see:
- Tannin bleed-through (yellow/brown stains)
- Paint peeling within months
- Uneven color absorption
Best Primers for Cabinets
KILZ Original (shellac-based)
Best stain blocking. Strong odor.
Zinsser BIN (shellac-based)
Excellent adhesion. Quick drying.
Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 (water-based)
Low odor. Good all-around choice.
INSL-X Stix (bonding primer)
Best for slick surfaces like laminate.
Priming Process
- Apply thin, even coats (2 light coats > 1 heavy)
- Work in one direction to minimize brush marks
- Let dry fully (check product label, usually 2-4 hours)
- Light sand with 220-grit between coats
- Wipe with tack cloth before topcoat
Step 5: Paint
Best Paints for Kitchen Cabinets
Benjamin Moore Advance
Industry standard. Self-leveling, durable, gorgeous finish.
Sherwin-Williams Emerald Urethane
Extremely durable. Great for high-traffic kitchens.
PPG Breakthrough
Dries fast, sticks well, levels nicely.
Behr Alkyd Semi-Gloss
Budget-friendly, good durability.
Application Order
- Back of doors first β Less visible if you make mistakes
- Inside of boxes β Optional but looks more finished
- Face frames β Where you'll see most
- Door fronts last β Most visible, do when you've practiced
Technique for Smooth Finish
- Use foam mini-roller for flat areas, brush for profiles
- Apply thin coats (multiple thin > one thick)
- Don't overworkβapply and leave it
- Paint flat surfaces horizontally to allow self-leveling
- Allow full dry time between coats (often 24 hours)
- Light sand (220-grit) between coats if needed
π‘ Pro Tip: The Spray Advantage
HVLP sprayers create truly factory-smooth finishes that brushes and rollers can't match. Rent from home improvement stores for ~$50-75/day. Watch YouTube tutorials before spraying.
Step 6: Reassemble
Wait for Full Cure
This is where patience pays off. Paint may feel dry but isn't fully cured. Installing too early causes scratches and marks.
Reinstallation Tips
- Install hardware before hanging doors
- Check alignment and adjust as needed
- Use felt pads on door bumpers to prevent sticking
- Avoid cleaning with harsh chemicals for 30 days
π Pro Tips for Best Results
Temperature Matters
Paint between 50-80Β°F. Too cold = poor adhesion. Too hot = paint dries before self-leveling.
Add Floetrol
Add paint conditioner to extend working time and reduce brush marks. Follow package ratios.
Strain Your Paint
Pour through paint strainer into clean bucket. Removes dried bits that cause bumps.
Work Clean
Dust and debris are your enemy. Close windows, clean workspace, wear lint-free clothes.
Upgrade Hardware
New knobs/pulls make painted cabinets look even more like a renovation.
Consider Soft-Close Hinges
While doors are off, upgrade to soft-close hinges. Prevents slamming damage.
π§ Troubleshooting Common Issues
Brush marks visible after drying
Cause: Paint drying too fast,
overworking, or cheap paint.
Fix: Light sand and recoat.
Add Floetrol, work in thinner coats, and don't
go back over drying paint.
Paint peeling off
Cause: Poor surface prep
(grease, no sanding, wrong primer).
Fix: Strip affected areas,
clean thoroughly, sand, prime with bonding
primer, and repaint.
Yellow/brown bleed-through
Cause: Tannins from wood
bleeding through paint.
Fix: Apply shellac-based
primer (Zinsser BIN) to block, then repaint.
Sticky finish that won't harden
Cause: Painting in wrong
conditions (humid, cold) or recoating too
soon.
Fix: Wait longer and ventilate.
May need to strip and restart.
Drips and runs
Cause: Too much paint applied
at once.
Fix: Sand drips when dry,
apply thinner coats. Don't overload brush
or roller.
DIY Not for You?
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